The following is a list of items I used to create my cosplay of big boss / naked snake that I wore to the 2007 San Diego Comic Con.
All you need for this is your basic mock turtle neck compression shirt. I used a sharpie to color in the white logos. Also, it looks better if you get it pretty tight so it form fits to your arms. If you want to get really fancy you can pound 2 eyelets into the inside of the forearm. I also cut a small hole in the wrists so I could put my thumb through. This keeps it from riding up your arm or having a space between your gloves and your sleeve.
These gloves are very close if not completely accurate to what Naked Snake is wearing in MGS3. Just cut off the thumb, pointer and middle fingers about an inch from the knuckle. On mine I had to re-sew the seams because they started to come undone at the edges.
Neck/Throat Microphone and PPT/Vox switcher box
For the actual throat microphone, I just got one similar to this. Just make sure it has an ear piece. The switch box probably isn’t going to look anything like Snake’s so I’ll go into creating that below.
Making the Neck Mic
I started by buying a neck microphone on ebay. When it came the push to talk(ptt)/vox switch box was way too small for the one that snake had so I had to make a housing for it, ideally without destroying the mic.
I picked up some craft foam to start out. The color doesnt really matter because you’ll be painting over it anyway.
I cut out like 8 layers of 2.5×3.5 inch rectangles and for all but 3 cut a little hole hole that connected with the top edge of each layer. This is so that the existing ptt/vox switch could fit in, but so the wires could still come out and so that it would be held securely. Kind of like when you see people cut pages of books so they can fit something into it. Now, what do we do with the 3 pieces of foam that don’t have the cutout for the existing switcher? For one of the 3 pieces I cut out a circle and then cut off the rest of the corner (to get the round shape for the dial). Cut out 2 little notches about 3/4 down for the screw holes on the same layer of foam as the circle. The other 2 pieces are fine as is.
stack all your foam up (order: circle cut, full piece, all the pieces with the cutout, whole piece), measure, and make cut some pieces for the sides so that when assembled it will be all smooth. Also, i cut 2 layers out for the actual switch thing.
Now, glue all the main pieces together, making sure that the parts with the cutout for the switcher are on what will be the top of the box. I used normal Elmer’s glue for this. let it dry completely.
Once this whole thing is dry, I shoved the original switcher box into the hole and painted the outer layer with a 1:1 mix of glue:water. You have to do several coats of this so that it seals the outside.
After the whole assembly was done I used white and black acrylic paint to make it look like Snake’s PPT/Vox box. and paint on the screws and stuff.
to attach it to my harness I used velcro with an adhesive back and sewed the other side to the harness shoulder. It worked out pretty well!
For the boots any “jungle boot” will do. There are a bunch for various prices here. It should be noted that they take awhile to break in. The best method that I found was to wear 2 pairs of socks, go stand in some water, then walk around till they are dry. Takes awhile but saves your feet. If you’re gonna be at a con I recommend getting some gel insoles as well. They work wonders! If you’re going for authenticity, these are the closest I’ve found. They are really good quality, I wear mine pretty often day to day.
Belt and Pouches
Starting at the front center of the belt moving right in order.
If you can afford it, the leather m1916 holster is what snake uses in MGS3. At one of my local Army surplus stores I managed to find and Olive Drab canvas one that was about the same shape. Not completely accurate in my case, but it worked well enough.
I didn’t actually have a radio pouch on my costume. Couldn’t find one in time. Maybe next time. If you don’t want to buy a radio to fill it, maybe make a foam one in the same way I made the shoulder switch.
Fairly Standard Butt Pack. I cut off some of the extra strapping. And sewed some of the top parts to my Stabo harness.
Pistol Belt and Canteen
I didnt get this exact pistol belt but this pistol belt and G.I. style canteen combo looks right, and is pretty inexpensive.
I got the 2 M-14 Ammo pouches from IMS-Plus. If you want to be really accurate you can make a stencil that says “U.S. Army” and spraypaint it on. I didn’t bother. These were really hard to find the right kind, so take note. Functionality wise, they are very convenient and you can pack all sorts of crap in there.
Vietnam Era Stabo Harness
In Metal Gear Solid 3 Naked snake is wearing a Stabo harness. These suckers cost like $300 for a real one so that is out. Making this thing takes the most assembly. First off we’ll need some hardware and strapping. To accomplish this you’ll need to buy an old parachute harness. I found one online for pretty cheap, the problem with it was that all the hardware was kinda gross when I got it and I had to do some major cleaning after cutting it all loose.
The harness that I bought is no longer online, though. This one looks similar, and looks like it has all the right parts to build a STABO harness from. If this one doesn’t come with enough of the strap material you can buy additional “webbing” online at places like this. Make sure you get your harness gear first so that you can measure it and get the right thickness. The webbing I used on my harness is 1.23/32″ which is a standard size for military nylon webbing.
This is my first draft of the plans to make the Vietnam era Stabo harness. Each color represents a different length of strapping needed. It didn’t change much from this design and I’ll detail those changes below.
Once you’ve got all your strapping cut off the parachute harness and all your hardware you’ll need to set aside 2x D rings (the ones that look like triangles on one end), 2x clasping hooks, and 4x slide adjusters (The rectangles with the bar in the middle). For assembly I am going to refer to the sections by their colors on the above diagram.
Start out by taking 2 equal lengths of strapping about 2 feet long each and sew the flat end of a D ring on each one. To do this thread it through the back of the flat part and fold the strap up onto itself. Sew the 2 touching parts of the strap with a box shape and then sew an x across the box. Later on when you put the Stabo Harness together make sure you have the folded part on the inside so its not visible. For the top of the yellow section thread the open (non D ringed) side of the strap through the bottom part of a slide adjuster and pull it through so you have some extra, this can be used for adjusting the fit later. Once I got mine fitted I sewed this part off, but you don’t have to.
For the red section just make a small loop of strapping connecting the top of that yellow slide adjuster we just set up (there should be one side of it still exposed as shown on the right side of my diagram) and a second slide adjuster which will be entirely fixed and not adjustable.
Take the longest 2 sections of strapping you have, and cut them to the same length. About a foot and a half from the top of each one cross them and sew this together (this part will be in the center of your back when complete). For the short ends above the cross you just made loop through the free bar on adjuster that is connected to the red sections, sew it up.
Now, this will require a bit of estimation on your part, place the mostly assembled red yellow and green pieces over your head so that the yellow sections hang on the front of your body and the 2 D rings sit about 3 inches above your groin. Hold it in place and take the 2 remaining long ends of the green section (that should be dangling behind you and pull them under your crotch pull them up to the bottom of the D ring and mark them. It helps to have a second person to help you do all this. Where this mark is is about where you’re going to want to attach your clasping hooks. From the mark, go about 2 inches and cut off the excess on both green sections. Sew on the clasps the same way we did with the D rings earlier. Now you should be able to pull these through your legs and hook them onto the D rings. The harness is pretty much done, but the back is kind of bunching up weird. What I did is put on the pistol belt and added an extra section of strapping in the front and back, over the existing strapping that the pistol belt could be passed through, keeping it in place. Once that is done, pull on the yellow straps to adjust the size… and you’re done!
This is an actual stabo harness and yours should look fairly similar to this when laid out flat with the pistol belt in place.
Here is a photo of the Stabo harness I made for my Naked Snake cosplay to compare.
Now, I kind of took a shortcut when it came to knives. Snake has 2. 1 up on his stabo harness chest high, and one strapped onto his ankle. I didnt bother to get the ankle one and instead of looking for the correct knife I just strapped a KA-BAR knife to my shoulder. The KA-BAR is closer to to the one snake has strapped to his ankle, we’ll get to the shoulder one later.
Of course at a con like Comic Con carrying a deadly weapon isn’t really smiled upon. So to be safe I took out the KA-BAR and used a rubber one. It was originally too thick to fit into the Ka-Bar’s sheath, so I had to carve it down to about half its original thickness.
As far as the shoulder knife, Josh (a commenter down below) found this rad knife that looks really close to what snake wears on his shoulder.
For Snake’s gun I used a KWC Brand – Colt M1991A1 Airsoft gun. The correct gun is a M1911A1 (pictured above) but they look nearly identical and the one I got was cheaper.
Depending on the rules where you’re going to be cosplaying you may or may not be allowed to bring a functional airsoft gun. Just in case I purchased this rubber one (Updated this link with a rubber M1991), which I didn’t end up using as they let me in with the M1991A1. If you dont want it to be yellow you could probably paint it black with a satin spray paint to simulate the metal finish. Just be sure to check your con’s weapon rules before spending the money on a nice airsoft if you wont be able to take it with you.
Just get your basic black knee brace. Get as simple a knee brace as you can. Naked Snake’s is about 7 to 8 inches of black stretch fabric. Make sure you don’t get one of the ones with a hole in the front.
Not exactly rocket science. I just cut up an old T-Shirt. For Naked Snake his bandanna is kind of greenish blue but the classic blue Solid Snake style bandanna works fine. I’ve seen lots of people pad their bandannas and stuff but generally I think that this makes it look awful. Snake would just be using fabric tied around his head, and so should you. Don’t get fancy.
It’s also nice to have a few props.
I carried around an eyepatch made from suede intended for elbow patches, but worked really nicely. It looks nice and black in photos not all glossy and stupid. I got a length of elastic and sewed it onto the patch. Worked well, but because the hall was crowded I barely wore it. It was a pain walking around and trying to see stuff.
Gas stations everywhere. Don’t be an idiot. I smoked part of it (which was gross by the way) and put it out so the tip would look charred.